Introduction
With a population of only 95,000 inhabitants, Mons, the capital city of Belgium's Hainaut province, blends rich history with cultural vibrancy. Founded around a 7th-century monastic settlement, it became a fortified medieval hub under Count Baldwin IV and now features UNESCO-listed sites including its Baroque belfry, Neolithic flint mines at Spiennes, and the annual Ducasse de Mons (Doudou) festival. The compact city centre revolves around the Grand Place, flanked by the 15th-century Gothic Town Hall and Sainte-Waudru Collegiate Church housing 16th-century alabaster statues. As a 2015 European Capital of Culture, Mons offers museums like the Mons Memorial Museum and Artothèque, while surrounding areas feature WWI battlefields and the Pairi Daiza wildlife park. Accessible via Brussels in under 90 minutes by train, its pedestrian-friendly layout and free shuttle service facilitate exploration of its architectural heritage and modern creative spaces.
Interesting Facts about Mons
- Mons witnessed both the first and last British soldiers killed in Europe during World War I, buried side by side in a local cemetery.
- The 15th-century Saint Waltrude Collegiate Church houses 16th-century alabaster statues and one of Belgium's finest collections of religious goldsmith work.
- Mons boasts Belgium's only Baroque-style belfry, a UNESCO World Heritage Site with a 49-bell carillon that chimes every 15 minutes.
- The Neolithic flint mines at Spiennes, dating back over 6,000 years, form one of Europe's earliest and largest ancient mining complexes.
- Annual Ducasse de Mons festival features a UNESCO-recognised tradition where a golden reliquary of Saint Waltrude is pulled through streets by white horses.
- Pairi Daiza, Europe's largest aviary, occupies a transformed abbey complex near Mons with over 5,000 animals and themed gardens.
- Vincent van Gogh lived in a Cuesmes cottage near Mons in 1880 before achieving fame, now preserved as a museum.
- The Mundaneum archive, a precursor to modern internet search engines, stores millions of index cards cataloguing global knowledge since 1910.
- Rubbing the bronze "Monkey of the Grand Guarde" statue's head with your left hand is said to bring good luck according to local superstition.
- Mons became a European Capital of Culture in 2015, showcasing its blend of medieval heritage and modern artistic innovation.
History
Early History
The area shows human activity since Neolithic times, with some of Europe's finest flint tools discovered in Spiennes. The Nervii tribe inhabited the region when Julius Caesar arrived in the 1st century BCE. The Romans built a fort called Castrilocus, which later evolved into Montes (mount or hill), referring to the hill where it stands.
Medieval Development
In the 7th century, Saint Waltrude established a convent around which the city grew. She was canonised in 1039 and became the city's protector. Count Baldwin IV of Hainaut fortified Mons in the 12th century, and by the late 13th century, the population reached 4700. In 1295, Mons replaced Valenciennes as the capital of Hainaut county.
Military History
From the 16th to 18th centuries, Mons endured multiple occupations by Spanish, French, Austrian, and Dutch forces. The city played a significant role in both World Wars. The Battle of Mons in August 1914 marked the British Army's first engagement in WWI, where they faced a superior German force. The city remained under German occupation until its liberation by Canadian forces on 11 November 1918 - the final day of WWI.
Industrial Era
The Industrial Revolution transformed Mons into a major heavy industry centre, particularly through coal mining in the Borinage region. The city's fortifications were dismantled in the 1860s, allowing for the creation of boulevards and urban expansion.
Cultural Heritage
The Mundaneum, nicknamed the Paper Google, was established in Mons by Paul Outlet and Henri La Fontaine as an early attempt to collect and classify all world knowledge. This pioneering system was a precursor to the modern Internet.
Modern City
Today, Mons is a university town and commercial centre. Together with Plzen, it served as European Capital of Culture in 2015. The city features several UNESCO World Heritage sites, including its Baroque-style Belfry. The annual Ducasse de Mons festival, locally known as Doudou, is also UNESCO-listed.
Attractions
St Waltrude's Collegiate Church
St Waltrude (Sainte Waudru in French) church took over 200 years to complete. In 1450, the decision was made to replace the old Romanesque church by a new Gothic one. The construction ended in 1686. A 190m-high tower was planned in 1549, but was never completed due to the financial strains brought destructions caused by French troops in the 1691 siege.
The church's treasury houses religious goldsmith's works, textiles, books, sculptures and paintings dating from the 7th to 19th century.
St Waltrude's official website offers a virtual visit as well as more detailed information (in French only).
St Waltrude is open all year round from 9:00 am to 6:30 pm (from 7:00 am on Sundays). Admission is free.
The Treasury room is open from March to November everyday from 1:30 pm to 6:00 pm (until 5:00 pm on weekends).
Other attractions
Mons being originally a place of pilgrimage, most of the historic buildings are churches, chapels, convents or abbeys. But the beauty of Mons lies in its narrow paved streets and its traditional houses.
The two most interesting non-religious buildings are the 15th-century Renaissance style Hôtel de Ville (town hall) and the 87m tall Beffroi (belfry), erected in 1661. The belfry is the only Baroque-style belltower in Belgium and was listed as a World Heritage site by the UNESCO in 1999. Note the youth hostel at the foot of the belfry - probably the only one in the world!
Around Mons
The Neolithic Flint Mines at Spiennes, 2 km south-east of the city centre, are another UNESCO World Heritage site. They are the largest (over 100 ha) and earliest (6,000 years old) concentration of ancient mines in Europe. The first Neolithic farmers who came from the Near East via Greece and the Danube valley (Linear Pottery & Rössen cultures) were probably those who dig the mines. Mines were progressively replaced by pits. The pits are from 8 to 11 metres deep, except from the Camp-à-Cayaux pit, which reaches the considerable depth of 16 metres. The site was exploited for 1,800 years, until the arrival of the Indo-Europeans and bronze technology around 2200 BCE.
The site is open from March to November on Sundays only, from 10:00 am to 4:00 pm. Admission is 2.5 €. Group visits (min. 12 people) can be arranged any time with a reservation.
Top Museums
Art Museums
BAM (Beaux-Arts Mons)
Housed in a modern building in the historic center, BAM showcases an impressive collection of art. The museum features a large selection of Cobra works, Pop art, and other modern visual arts. It also displays an older collection of Belgian and Walloon works from the 15th to 19th centuries.
François Duesberg Museum of Decorative Arts
Located opposite the Sainte-Waudru collegiate church, this museum offers a fascinating insight into French society from the reign of Louis XVI to the Restoration. It houses an exceptional collection of decorative arts from 1775-1825, including a prestigious collection of clocks unique in the world and majestic French gilt bronzes.
Artothèque
The Artothèque provides a behind-the-scenes look at museum operations. It reveals the hidden life of over 50,000 artworks, showcasing their renovations, storage, and protection when not on public display.
Historical Museums
Mons Memorial Museum
This museum covers three significant periods: 1830-1914, World War I (1914-1918), and World War II (1940-1945). It offers an immersive experience of Mons during these times, displaying collection pieces related to each era. The museum invites visitors to question the complex realities of war through the fates of men and women who witnessed these events.
Mundaneum
Known as the "Paper Google," the Mundaneum is both a museum and archive center. It houses a vast collection of some six kilometers of paper, including major collections such as the International Museum of the Press and the International Institute of Photography.
Specialty Museums
Doudou Museum
Dedicated to the Ducasse de Mons festival (also known as the Doudou), this museum explores this UNESCO-recognized intangible cultural heritage. It examines the festival from various angles, including historical, anthropological, scientific, artistic, secular, and religious perspectives.
Maison Van Gogh
Located in Cuesmes, this house is where Dutch painter Vincent van Gogh stayed between August 1879 and October 1880. It's significant as the place where Van Gogh decided to become a painter.
Mons Belfry
The only baroque belfry in Belgium, this UNESCO World Heritage site houses a visitor center dedicated to its history. The permanent exhibition uses innovative multimedia displays to bring the belfry's story to life.
Natural Science Museum
Mons Regional Natural Science Museum
This museum includes a regional collection of zoology. One of its notable pieces is the skeleton of Julius Koch, also known as the giant Constantin, who was 2.56 meters tall.
Local Cuisine
Mons offers a delightful array of local specialities that showcase the region's rich culinary heritage. The city's signature dish is côte de porc à l'berdouille, a succulent pork chop smothered in a distinctive white wine and cream sauce flavoured with pickled onions and gherkins. Local cheese enthusiasts should seek out the pavé montois, a mild cow's milk cheese with a washed rind, whilst those with a sweet tooth can indulge in el cayau montois, a chocolate and biscuit confection topped with hazelnut ganache and meringue. The pagnon borain, a thick tart made from leavened dough and brown sugar, makes for a perfect accompaniment to afternoon coffee. The city's dining scene ranges from cosy brasseries to Michelin-recognised establishments, with many restaurants clustered around the charming Grand'Place, where diners can also sample the region's sparkling wines from the nearby Chant d'Éole vineyard.
Shopping
The charming city centre of Mons offers a delightful shopping experience, with its pedestrianised Grand Place serving as the heart of retail activity. The cobblestoned streets surrounding the central square are lined with an array of boutiques, speciality shops, and traditional Belgian chocolate makers, whilst the Grand'Rue stands out as the primary shopping thoroughfare. Every Sunday morning, the vibrant weekly market transforms the Grand Place into a bustling marketplace where locals and visitors alike can browse fresh produce, regional delicacies, and artisanal crafts. For modern retail therapy, the Les Grands Prés shopping centre, located just outside the historic centre, houses over 100 shops including major international brands, a hypermarket, and numerous dining options. Fashion enthusiasts will particularly appreciate the mix of high-street retailers and independent boutiques scattered throughout the medieval streets, offering everything from contemporary fashion to vintage finds.
Nature in and around Mons
Mons offers a wealth of natural attractions for outdoor enthusiasts. The stunning Parc Naturel des Hauts-Pays, located 30 km south of the city, features pristine forests, singing birds, streams, waterfalls and steep valleys, with the 750-hectare Bois de Colfontaine serving as an important ornithological reserve. The Bois d'Havré, a 250-hectare forest on the city's outskirts, acts as Mons' green lung and offers well-marked paths for hiking, cycling and horseback riding, along with a VITA fitness trail. Nature lovers can also explore the former quarry of Obourg, now a natural educational area where wild orchids bloom and deer roam near limestone cliffs. The region's mining heritage is visible at the Héribus mining heap, which provides spectacular panoramic views over Mons and serves as a reminder of the area's industrial past whilst creating a unique ecosystem for local flora and fauna.
Getting Around
Mons can be easily accessed by train from Brussels (45 to 60 minutes), Tournai (23 to 41 minutes), Lille (45 to 55 minutes), Namur (1 hour) or Liege (1h45min to 2h15min).
Mons offers a comprehensive public transport network centred around its railway station. The city is served by 23 TEC bus lines connecting it to surrounding municipalities and northern France, with two trains per hour running between Brussels and Mons. The city centre is easily accessible by foot, being just a 15-minute walk from the railway station. For travel within the city, there are dedicated intra-city bus services including the City'O and City'R lines, with a City Mons Multi pass offering 20 trips for €20.60. The bus network operates from early morning until evening, with the main TEC office open from 7:30 AM to 6 PM on weekdays. For those needing transport outside bus hours, several local taxi companies provide reliable service throughout the city.
Best Time to Visit
The optimal time to visit Mons is during the shoulder seasons of spring (May) and early autumn (September), when the weather is pleasant with temperatures ranging from 15°C to 20°C and tourist crowds are manageable. These months offer good conditions for exploring the city's UNESCO World Heritage Belfry and medieval architecture, whilst enjoying outdoor cafes and cultural events. Summer months (July and August) bring peak tourist season with warmer temperatures around 23°C, but accommodation prices are at their highest. Winter, particularly December through February, sees temperatures drop to near freezing and frequent rainfall, though the Christmas market and the Mons en Lumières festival in late January add a magical atmosphere to the city during these darker months.
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