Edinburgh Travel Guide

Introduction

Edinburgh, the capital of Scotland, is a historic city perched on volcanic hills along the southern shore of the Firth of Forth. As the UK's second most visited city after London, it attracts over two million tourists annually. The city is divided into two distinct areas: the medieval Old Town, which houses most tourist attractions, and the Georgian-era New Town, known for its shopping and dining venues. Edinburgh's landscape is dominated by its iconic castle built atop Castle Rock, a volcanic plug overlooking the city. The city is renowned for its cultural festivals, historic architecture, and free museums, while its temperate climate makes it suitable for year-round visits, despite frequent rainfall.

Interesting Facts about Edinburgh

• Edinburgh Castle is built on Castle Rock, an extinct volcano that erupted over 340 million years ago.
• The Royal Mile, stretching between Edinburgh Castle and Holyrood Palace, measures exactly one mile and 107 yards long.
• Edinburgh became the world's first city with an organised municipal fire service in 1824, established by James Braidwood.
• With 112 parks and more trees per capita than any other UK city, Edinburgh holds the title of Britain's greenest urban area.
• J.K. Rowling wrote parts of Harry Potter in Edinburgh's Elephant House café, drawing inspiration from local landmarks like Greyfriars Kirkyard.
• The Encyclopædia Britannica was first published in Edinburgh between 1768 and 1771.
• St Margaret's Chapel in Edinburgh Castle, dating from 1130, is the city's oldest surviving building.
• Edinburgh's peculiar historical greeting "You'll have had your tea?" originated as a tactic to avoid hosting guests for refreshments.
• The Stone of Destiny, used in British coronations for centuries, resides in Edinburgh Castle amidst legends about its authenticity.
• A secret eavesdropping window called the "laird's lug" allowed castle residents to spy on conversations in Edinburgh Castle's Great Hall.
• Calton Hill's unfinished National Monument, modelled after Athens' Parthenon, earned the nickname "Edinburgh's Disgrace".
• Edinburgh contains more listed heritage buildings than any other city worldwide except London.
• Princes Street Gardens occupies the former site of the Nor Loch, a medieval defensive moat notorious for public executions.
• The underground streets of Mary King's Close preserve 17th-century Edinburgh life beneath the Royal Mile.
• Edinburgh Festival Fringe remains the world's largest arts festival, hosting over 50,000 performances annually.
• Edinburgh Zoo houses Sir Nils Olav III, a knighted king penguin who holds honorary Norwegian military rank.
• Edinburgh's Old Town and New Town form a UNESCO World Heritage Site showcasing medieval and Georgian architecture.
• Arthur's Seat, the city's highest point, forms part of an ancient volcanic system dating back 350 million years.
• The Scott Monument stands as the world's largest memorial dedicated to a writer, honouring Sir Walter Scott.
• Edinburgh's 19th-century nickname "Auld Reekie" referenced the smog from countless coal fires across the city.

History

Edinburgh's history dates back to 8500 BCE, with the earliest human settlements around Castle Rock and Arthur's Seat. The area was first occupied by Romans around 200 CE, who established settlements on Castle Rock, Arthur's Seat, and Blackford Hill.

Early History

The settlement's name originated from 'Edwin's fort', referencing the 7th-century King Edwin of Northumbria. In 638 CE, the Angles captured the area from the Goddodin people and combined 'Eiden' with their word for fort, 'burh', creating Edinburgh.

Medieval Period

The royal burgh was established by King David I in the early 12th century. Edinburgh became Scotland's capital in 1437, replacing Scone. The city grew rapidly, reaching 12,000 inhabitants by 1500.

City Development

The Flodden Wall was built after 1513 to protect against English attacks. Due to space constraints within the walls, the city grew vertically, with buildings reaching up to 12 stories high. This vertical growth made Edinburgh one of the world's first cities with high-rise living.

Georgian Era

The 18th century brought significant changes:

• The New Town was designed in 1767 by James Craig, featuring parallel streets, squares and gardens
• Edinburgh became known as 'The Athens of the North' during the Enlightenment period
• The city emerged as a centre for intellectuals in philosophy, history, medicine, science and economics

Modern Era

Today, Edinburgh serves as Scotland's capital and the seat of the Scottish Parliament, which was re-established in 1999. The city remains a major cultural and educational centre, housing the University of Edinburgh, National Library, National Gallery, and Royal Scottish Museum.

Main Attractions

Historic Landmarks

Edinburgh Castle

Perched atop Castle Rock, an extinct volcano dominating Edinburgh's skyline, Edinburgh Castle stands as a symbol of Scottish heritage and resilience. This iconic fortress has witnessed centuries of royal history, sieges, and military operations. Visitors can explore its many facets, including the Great Hall with its impressive hammerbeam roof, the Royal Palace where Mary Queen of Scots gave birth to James VI, and the Scottish National War Memorial. The castle houses the Honours of Scotland, the oldest crown jewels in the British Isles, as well as the Stone of Destiny, used in the coronation of Scottish monarchs. Don't miss St Margaret's Chapel, the oldest building in Edinburgh, or the famous One O'clock Gun, fired daily except Sundays, Good Friday, and Christmas Day. The panoramic views of the city from the castle ramparts are simply breathtaking.

Palace of Holyroodhouse

At the eastern end of the Royal Mile lies the Palace of Holyroodhouse, the official residence of the British monarch in Scotland. This elegant palace has been at the centre of Scottish history for centuries, serving as the principal residence of the Kings and Queens of Scots since the 16th century. Visitors can explore the State Apartments, adorned with fine artworks and tapestries, and walk in the footsteps of Mary Queen of Scots in her private chambers. The Great Gallery, lined with Jacob de Wet's portraits of real and legendary Scottish monarchs, is particularly impressive. Outside, the ruins of Holyrood Abbey, founded in 1128, offer a haunting glimpse into medieval Scotland. The palace gardens, with Arthur's Seat as a dramatic backdrop, provide a peaceful retreat from the bustling city.

Notable Streets and Districts

The Royal Mile

The Royal Mile, Edinburgh's most famous street, runs through the heart of the Old Town, connecting Edinburgh Castle to Holyroodhouse Palace. This historic thoroughfare is actually composed of several streets: Castlehill, Lawnmarket, High Street, Canongate, and Abbey Strand. Along its length, visitors will find a treasure trove of attractions, from historic landmarks to hidden gems. St Giles' Cathedral, with its distinctive crown spire, stands proudly at the centre. The street is lined with traditional shops selling tartans, whisky, and Scottish souvenirs, as well as charming pubs and restaurants. One of the most intriguing features of the Royal Mile is its numerous closes and wynds - narrow alleyways that lead off the main street, each with its own story to tell. Look out for the Heart of Midlothian, a heart-shaped mosaic in the pavement marking the site of the old Tolbooth prison, and the Mercat Cross, where royal proclamations are still read.

Victoria Street and Grassmarket

Victoria Street, with its distinctive curved terrace and colourful shopfronts, is often cited as one of the most picturesque streets in Edinburgh. This charming cobbled street, which inspired Diagon Alley in the Harry Potter series, is home to an eclectic mix of independent boutiques, vintage shops, and artisanal food stores. As you descend the street, you'll find yourself in the historic Grassmarket, a vibrant area that was once the site of public executions but is now known for its lively atmosphere, traditional pubs, and stunning views of Edinburgh Castle. The Grassmarket hosts a weekly Saturday market where local producers sell everything from fresh produce to handmade crafts. Look out for the Covenanter's Memorial, which commemorates the martyrs of the 17th-century religious struggles, and the 'shadow' of the gibbet on the pavement, marking the spot where the gallows once stood.

Calton Hill

Just a short walk from Princes Street, Calton Hill is one of Edinburgh's main hills, set right in the city centre. It's renowned for its collection of historic monuments, which form some of the most important landmarks of the city. The most prominent is the National Monument, inspired by the Parthenon in Athens, which was started in 1816 but never completed, earning it the nickname "Edinburgh's Disgrace". The Nelson Monument, a tower built to commemorate Admiral Nelson, offers panoramic views of the city and houses a time ball mechanism that was once used to signal the time to ships in the Firth of Forth. Other monuments include the Dugald Stewart Monument, the Burns Monument, and the City Observatory. Calton Hill is particularly popular at sunset, offering uninterrupted views of Edinburgh's dramatic skyline, from the castle to Arthur's Seat. It's also the venue for the Beltane Fire Festival, held on the last day of April each year, celebrating the beginning of summer.

Scott Monument

The Scott Monument, a towering tribute to Sir Walter Scott, is one of the most striking features of Edinburgh's skyline. This Victorian Gothic spire, standing at 200 feet tall, is the largest monument to a writer in the world. Designed by George Meikle Kemp and completed in 1844, the monument is adorned with 64 statues of characters from Scott's novels, as well as figures from Scottish history. At its base sits a marble statue of Scott with his beloved dog Maida. The monument's intricate design includes flying buttresses, gargoyles, and delicately carved figurines, making it a masterpiece of Scottish Gothic architecture. Visitors can climb the 287 steps to the top via a series of narrow, spiral staircases. The journey upwards is punctuated by viewing galleries at different levels, each offering increasingly spectacular views over Princes Street Gardens, the Old Town, and beyond to the Firth of Forth. At the summit, you're rewarded with a breathtaking 360-degree panorama of Edinburgh. The monument also houses a small exhibition on Scott's life and work, making it not just an architectural marvel but an immersive literary experience.

Dean Village

Dean Village, a tranquil oasis just five minutes from Princes Street, feels worlds away from the bustle of Edinburgh's city centre. This picturesque former grain milling hamlet, situated on the Water of Leith, offers a glimpse into Edinburgh's industrial past while providing a peaceful retreat for visitors and locals alike. The village's history dates back to the 12th century, and its well-preserved architecture reflects its long-standing importance to the city. The most striking building is Well Court, a distinctive red sandstone tenement built in the 1880s to house local workers. Its clock tower and picturesque courtyard make it a favourite subject for photographers. As you wander the cobbled streets, you'll come across other reminders of the village's milling history, including old millstones and stone plaques carved with baked bread and pies. The Water of Leith, which once powered the mills, now provides a serene backdrop for walks along its banks. The Dean Bridge, designed by Thomas Telford in 1831, offers stunning views of the village and the river valley. For art enthusiasts, the nearby Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art is just a short walk away. Dean Village's charm lies in its ability to transport visitors to a quieter, more pastoral version of Edinburgh, offering a unique perspective on the city's rich history and diverse character.

Unique Experiences

Camera Obscura & World of Illusions

Established in 1835, Camera Obscura & World of Illusions is Edinburgh's oldest visitor attraction and a fascinating journey into the world of optical illusions, visual trickery, and hands-on fun. The star of the show is the Camera Obscura itself, a 19th-century device that projects a live moving image of Edinburgh onto a viewing table through a periscope. This Victorian marvel offers a unique perspective on the city's skyline. Beyond this, the attraction boasts six floors of interactive exhibits that will challenge your senses and perception. Visitors can lose themselves in the mirror maze, navigate through the vortex tunnel, and experience holograms that seem to come to life. The Magic Gallery features mind-bending optical illusions, while the Light Fantastic exhibit showcases the beauty of light with plasma tubes and thermal imaging cameras. The experience culminates on the rooftop terrace, offering panoramic views of Edinburgh and the chance to use powerful telescopes and binoculars to spot landmarks across the city.

The Real Mary King's Close

Hidden beneath the Royal Mile, The Real Mary King's Close offers a unique glimpse into Edinburgh's hidden history. This underground attraction reveals a network of 17th-century streets and spaces that were built over and forgotten for centuries. Named after Mary King, a prominent businesswoman in the 1630s, the close (a Scots term for alleyway) was once a bustling residential and commercial area. Today, costumed character guides lead visitors through the preserved streets, sharing tales of the people who lived and worked here during some of the most dramatic periods in the city's history. You'll learn about the impact of the plague, the myths of murderers and ghosts, and the harsh realities of life in medieval Edinburgh. The tour includes visits to various rooms and spaces, each telling its own story, from the home of a wealthy merchant to the cramped quarters of the poor. One of the most poignant areas is the shrine to Annie, allegedly a young girl who died during the plague and whose restless spirit is said to still linger. The Real Mary King's Close offers a fascinating journey through time, bringing Edinburgh's underground history vividly to life.

Top Museums

National Museum of Scotland

The National Museum of Scotland is a treasure trove of Scottish history, culture, and natural heritage. This expansive museum offers a wide range of exhibits covering science, technology, natural history, and Scottish archaeology. The Grand Gallery, with its striking Victorian architecture, houses iconic objects like the Millennium clock tower and Dolly the Sheep. With its diverse collections, this museum provides a comprehensive overview of Scotland's past and present.

Scottish National Gallery

Located on the Mound, the Scottish National Gallery is a haven for art enthusiasts. The museum houses an impressive collection of European and Scottish artworks from the Renaissance to the early 20th century. Visitors can admire masterpieces by renowned artists such as Rembrandt, Titian, Van Gogh, and Turner. The neoclassical building itself, designed by William Henry Playfair, is a work of art that complements the treasures within.

Museum of Edinburgh

Situated in the historic Huntly House on the Royal Mile, the Museum of Edinburgh offers a fascinating journey through the city's history. The museum's collections include iconic items such as the National Covenant of 1638 and the collar of Greyfriars Bobby, the loyal Skye terrier. Visitors can explore the maze of 16th-century buildings, discovering beautiful objects and learning about Edinburgh's rich heritage through the centuries.

National War Museum

Located within Edinburgh Castle, the National War Museum provides insight into Scotland's military history from the 17th century to the present day. The museum's collections include weapons, uniforms, and personal accounts that bring to life the nation's role in various conflicts. The atmospheric setting within the castle walls adds to the poignancy of the exhibits.

Scottish National Portrait Gallery

Housed in a striking red sandstone Gothic-style building on Queen Street, the Scottish National Portrait Gallery showcases portraits of notable Scots throughout history. The museum's collections include works by national artists and the Scottish National Photography Collection. Visitors can view portraits of famous figures such as Robert Burns, Robbie Coltrane, and Sean Connery, painted by renowned Scottish artists.

Dynamic Earth

For those interested in earth sciences, Dynamic Earth offers an immersive journey through the planet's history and evolution. Located at the foot of Arthur's Seat, this modern science center uses state-of-the-art technology to showcase geological wonders, climate changes, and the emergence of life on Earth. It's an engaging and educational experience suitable for visitors of all ages.

Surgeons' Hall Museums

The Surgeons' Hall Museums, owned by The Royal College of Surgeons of Edinburgh, offer a unique glimpse into the history of medicine and surgery. The museums consist of The Wohl Pathology Museum, The History of Surgery Museum, and The Dental Collection. Visitors can explore one of the largest collections of pathological anatomy in the world and learn about Edinburgh's significant contributions to surgical practices globally.

Local Cuisine

Edinburgh's culinary scene is a delightful blend of traditional Scottish fare and modern innovations. The city's signature dishes include the iconic haggis, traditionally served with neeps and tatties, alongside hearty seafood offerings like the creamy Cullen skink soup made with smoked haddock. Local specialities extend to the beloved fish supper (fish and chips), customarily doused in Edinburgh's distinctive salt and brown sauce rather than vinegar. Sweet-toothed visitors must sample the buttery Scottish shortbread, whilst those seeking authentic local experiences should try a traditional Scottish breakfast or porridge. The city's food culture also embraces international influences, with numerous establishments offering creative twists on classic Scottish ingredients. From cosy traditional pubs to upmarket restaurants, Edinburgh's eateries showcase the finest local produce, from fresh seafood caught in nearby waters to locally sourced meats and seasonal vegetables.

Shopping

Edinburgh offers a diverse shopping experience, with its iconic Princes Street serving as the main retail thoroughfare, boasting unparalleled views of Edinburgh Castle whilst housing major high street brands. The city's shopping landscape extends beyond this central hub, encompassing the luxurious Multrees Walk with designer boutiques, the historic Grassmarket area with its eclectic mix of independent shops and vintage stores, and modern retail complexes like the St James Quarter and Ocean Terminal. George Street, running parallel to Princes Street, presents an elegant shopping environment with high-end fashion retailers and beautiful Georgian architecture. For those seeking unique Scottish souvenirs and artisanal goods, the Royal Mile's traditional shops offer everything from handcrafted kilts to local whisky, whilst the charming Victoria Street, with its winding cobblestone path and colourful shopfronts, provides a delightful blend of quirky boutiques and speciality stores.

Nature in and around Edinburgh

Edinburgh offers a remarkable blend of urban and natural landscapes right within its city limits. The majestic Holyrood Park, home to the extinct volcanic peak of Arthur's Seat, dominates the city centre and provides sweeping panoramas across Edinburgh and beyond. The city boasts several serene lochs, including Duddingston, Dunsapie, and St Margaret's, which serve as havens for diverse wildlife and waterfowl. Nature enthusiasts can explore the tranquil Water of Leith Walkway, which meanders through the heart of the city for 13 miles, passing the Royal Botanic Gardens with its impressive collection of 100,000 plants spread across 70 acres. For those seeking more rugged terrain, the Pentland Hills Regional Park lies just southwest of the city, offering challenging hikes and spectacular Highland-like landscapes with peaks reaching 579 metres. The city's commitment to natural spaces is further exemplified by its numerous local nature reserves, including the peaceful Hermitage of Braid, where visitors can enjoy riverside walks and woodland trails.

Princes Street Gardens

Princes Street Gardens is a public park that divides Edinburgh's Old Town from the New Town, offering a tranquil green space in the heart of the city. These beautiful gardens were created in the 1820s following the draining of the Nor Loch and are split into East and West sections by The Mound. The gardens feature several notable landmarks, including the ornate Ross Fountain, a magnificent example of 19th-century cast iron work, and the famous Floral Clock, a horticultural marvel that has been keeping time since 1903. The Scott Monument, a Victorian Gothic monument to Scottish author Sir Walter Scott, stands proudly in the East Gardens. At 200 feet tall, it's the largest monument to a writer in the world. During the summer, the gardens host various events and concerts, while in winter they transform into a festive wonderland with a Christmas market and ice rink. Throughout the year, the gardens provide excellent views of Edinburgh Castle perched dramatically on its rock above.

Royal Botanic Garden

Located just a mile from the city centre, the Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh is a tranquil oasis spanning 70 acres of beautifully landscaped grounds. Founded in 1670 as a physic garden to grow medicinal plants, it has evolved into a world-renowned centre for plant science, horticulture, and education. The garden showcases over 100,000 plants representing about 3,000 species from around the world. Highlights include the magnificent Victorian Temperate Palm House, one of the tallest traditional palm houses ever built, the colourful Chinese Hillside with its authentic Chinese pavilion, and the serene Rock Garden featuring alpine plants from six continents. The Woodland Garden offers a peaceful walk among rhododendrons and azaleas, while the Herbaceous Border displays a stunning array of colourful perennials. The garden also houses ten unique glasshouses, each recreating a different climatic zone, from the steamy tropics to arid deserts. With its world-class facilities and stunning views of the Edinburgh skyline, the Royal Botanic Garden offers a perfect blend of natural beauty and scientific discovery.

Arthur's Seat

Rising 251 metres above sea level, Arthur's Seat is the main peak of the group of hills forming Holyrood Park. This ancient volcano offers an exhilarating hiking experience right in the heart of the city. The moderate hike to the summit takes approximately 1-1.5 hours, rewarding climbers with breathtaking panoramic views of Edinburgh, the Firth of Forth, and beyond to the rolling hills of Fife. The park itself is a unique historic landscape, featuring 15th-century St Anthony's Chapel ruins, Salisbury Crags (a series of 150-foot cliff faces dominating Edinburgh's skyline), and Duddingston Loch, a freshwater loch rich in birdlife. Whether you're seeking a challenging hike or a gentle stroll, Holyrood Park offers routes for all abilities. The park is also home to a wide array of flora and fauna, making it a haven for nature lovers and geologists alike.

Getting Around

Edinburgh boasts an extensive and efficient public transport network that makes exploring the city a breeze. The award-winning Lothian Buses operates over 50 routes throughout Edinburgh and its surroundings, with frequent services running day and night, including a 24-hour connection to Edinburgh Airport. The modern tram system provides a sleek alternative, running every seven minutes from Edinburgh Airport through the city centre to Newhaven, with 23 stops along the route. Visitors can easily purchase tickets through the Transport for Edinburgh app or use contactless payment on buses, whilst tram tickets must be bought from platform machines before boarding. For those seeking a traditional experience, Edinburgh's iconic black cabs can be hailed on the street or found at numerous taxi ranks across the city centre, particularly near major hotels and attractions.

Best Time to Visit

The ideal time to visit Edinburgh is during May or early September, when you can enjoy pleasant temperatures between 10°C to 15°C and relatively dry weather. May offers the longest daylight hours and is notably the driest month, whilst creating a picturesque setting with cherry blossoms lining the streets. If you prefer to experience Edinburgh's vibrant festival atmosphere, August is the peak season with numerous cultural events, though be prepared for larger crowds and higher accommodation prices. The autumn months of September and October are particularly charming, with the city adorned in stunning burnt oranges and deep reds, perfect for leisurely sightseeing and enjoying cosy cafes. Whilst Edinburgh is a year-round destination, these shoulder seasons offer the best balance of comfortable weather, reasonable prices, and manageable crowd levels.