Santander

Introduction

Santander, the capital of Cantabria, is a vibrant port city situated on the narrow coastline along the southern shore of Cape Mayor, a rocky peninsula that shelters Santander Bay. With a population of 172,000, this coastal gem offers a blend of history, stunning landscapes, and cultural treasures. The city features excellent harbours that have made it an important port since ancient times, with documentation going back to the 11th century. Much of the medieval city was lost in the Great Fire of 1941, but Santander still boasts notable attractions including the Magdalena Palace (once a royal summer residence), a Gothic cathedral, beautiful beaches like El Sardinero, and the headquarters of the multinational Banco Santander. The local economy is primarily service-based, with the port remaining active and offering regular ferry services to the United Kingdom. Visitors can enjoy the city's mild climate, local cuisine dominated by fresh seafood, and cultural events including a month-long arts festival each summer.

Interesting Facts about Santander

• Santander was founded by the Romans in the 1st century BCE.
• The city became an important port in the Middle Ages, trading wool and other goods.
• In 1755, a tsunami reached Santander after a devastating earthquake hit Lisbon.
• Much of Santander's old town was destroyed by the Great Fire of 1941, leading to significant rebuilding.
• Santander is situated on the Bay of Biscay, offering stunning coastal views.
• The Magdalena Peninsula, once a summer residence for the Spanish Royal Family, is a popular spot with lush gardens and panoramic sea views.
• El Sardinero Beach is one of the most famous beaches in Spain, attracting many visitors.
• The Palacio de la Magdalena, constructed in the early 20th century, stands as a testament to Santander's historical importance.
• Santander Cathedral, originally built in the 12th century, showcases impressive Gothic architecture.
• The Centro Botín, a modern art centre on the waterfront designed by Renzo Piano, is covered in 270,000 pearlised ceramic discs that reflect the light.
• Banco Santander, one of the world's largest banks, was founded in Santander in 1857.
• The University of Cantabria, a leading educational institution, was established in 1972.
• Santander is a hub for maritime industries, including fishing and shipbuilding.
• Semana Grande, or Big Week, is a major summer festival in Santander with concerts, fireworks, and parades.
• Santander's culture is vibrant and dynamic, featuring a rich calendar of festivals, concerts, exhibitions and other events throughout the year.

History

Santander's history dates back to Roman times when it was known as Portus Victoriae, later becoming home to Visigoth settlers. During the Middle Ages, the city gained prominence when Alfonso VIII of Castile granted it several charters with significant commercial privileges. Santander's maritime importance is immortalised in its coat of arms, which depicts Cantabrian sailors breaking the chain that blocked the Guadalquivir river during Fernando III's conquest of Seville. By the late 15th century, the settlement had grown to approximately 4,000-5,000 inhabitants, divided between two distinct neighbourhoods connected by a bridge over the Becedo estuary.

The city's strategic harbour on the Bay of Santander propelled its development as a crucial port for Castile and later for trade with the New World. Officially recognised as a city in 1755, Santander continued to flourish with the establishment of important institutions like the Banco Santander in 1857. Its seaside appeal and growing prominence eventually led to it becoming the summer residence of the royal court under King Alfonso XIII in the early 20th century, cementing its status as a prestigious destination. The city's architecture and layout reflect its evolution from a medieval port to an elegant coastal capital.

Santander's modern appearance owes much to two catastrophic events that reshaped its urban landscape. In 1893, the explosion of the Cabo Machichaco steamship, which was carrying dynamite, devastated the port area and surrounding streets. Even more transformative was the great fire of 1941, which burned for two days and destroyed much of the medieval town centre, including the Romanesque cathedral. This disaster triggered comprehensive reconstruction, replacing the traditional small stone and wood buildings with balconies with more modern, larger structures and creating the wide boulevards and open squares that characterise the city today. Despite these changes, Santander retains elements of its historical character, including the restored Gothic Cathedral and the early 20th-century Magdalena Palace, a former royal summer residence.

Main Attractions

Plaza Porticada

Plaza Porticada, officially known as Plaza de Pedro Velarde, was built in neo-Herrerian neoclassical style after the devastating fire of 1941 that destroyed much of the city's historic centre. Inaugurated in 1950, the square features a symmetrical design with five entrances and arcaded buildings supported by pilasters. At its centre stands a statue of Pedro Velarde, a Cantabrian hero of the Spanish War of Independence, erected in 1880. The plaza gained international recognition as the venue for the Santander International Festival from 1952 until 1990. Today, it serves as a social hub surrounded by government buildings, including the headquarters of Caja Cantabria bank, adorned with two controversial nude allegorical statues representing "Savings" and "Charity" by sculptor Agustín de la Herrán. In 2006, the square underwent significant renovation, becoming largely pedestrianised, and archaeological remains of Santander's medieval wall and a Civil War air-raid shelter were discovered during the works.

Paseo de Pereda

The Paseo de Pereda is Santander's most iconic promenade, offering a delightful blend of historical charm and modern amenities. This waterfront walkway provides stunning views of the Bay of Santander, lined with elegant 19th and early 20th-century buildings that speak to the city's prosperous past. Recently expanded, the promenade now incorporates a vast park area covering 48,000 square metres, enhancing the connection between the city centre and the bay. The Paseo de Pereda serves as a vital artery of Santander, linking various parts of the city and providing a space for locals and visitors alike to enjoy the coastal ambiance.

Real Palacio de La Magdelena

Perched atop the Magdalena Peninsula, the Real Palacio de La Magdelena is a stunning example of early 20th-century architecture. Built between 1908 and 1912 as a summer residence for the Spanish royal family, the palace combines elements of English, French, and regional mountain architectural styles. Its strategic location offers breathtaking views of the Cantabrian Sea and the Bay of Santander. The palace's interior is equally impressive, featuring exquisite French Neoclassical design with traditional Spanish touches. Today, the palace grounds are open to the public, allowing visitors to explore its manicured gardens and enjoy panoramic coastal vistas.

Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción

The Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción, Santander's main cathedral, is a unique architectural marvel comprising two churches built on top of each other. The lower church, known as Iglesia del Santíssimo Cristo, dates back to the 13th century and represents one of the oldest surviving structures in the city. The upper church, originally constructed in the 14th century, was largely rebuilt after the devastating fire of 1941. Despite this reconstruction, the cathedral retains its Gothic essence and stands as a testament to Santander's resilience and rich religious history.

Centro Botín

The Centro Botín, opened in 2017, is a symbol of Santander's embrace of contemporary culture and architecture. Designed by renowned architect Renzo Piano, this modern cultural centre is a striking addition to Santander's waterfront. The building's exterior, covered with 280,000 pearlescent ceramic discs, reflects the changing light and colours of the sky and sea, creating a dynamic visual spectacle. The centre houses gallery spaces dedicated to contemporary art, fostering creativity and cultural exchange. Its elevated design allows for uninterrupted views of the bay from the surrounding park, seamlessly integrating the building with its environment.

Los Raqueros Sculpture

The Los Raqueros sculpture, located near the Paseo de Pereda, is a poignant tribute to a local tradition. This bronze artwork depicts children jumping into the water, commemorating the "raqueros" - poor children who would dive into the bay to retrieve coins thrown by tourists and passing sailors. Created by José Cobo Calderón, the sculpture serves as a reminder of Santander's maritime heritage and the resilience of its people. The dynamic poses of the figures capture the energy and spirit of youth, making it a popular photo spot and a symbol of the city's connection to the sea.

Top Museums

Maritime Museum of Cantabria (Museo Marítimo del Cantábrico)

This captivating museum invites visitors on an extraordinary journey through the history and secrets of the Cantabrian Sea. Spanning four floors, it offers a comprehensive exploration of maritime life:

• Aquariums: The basement houses over 20 tanks containing more than a million litres of seawater, showcasing various underwater environments from coastal areas to depths exceeding 100 metres.
• Marine Biology: Displays artefacts from the old Zoological Experimental Marine Station, including scientific instruments and research materials.
• Fishermen and Fishing: An exhibition dedicated to the fishing industry and its history in the Cantabrian Sea.
• Maritime Exploration: Tells the story of human activity in the Cantabrian Sea over nearly two millennia.

The museum also features a restaurant and an observation terrace offering beautiful views of Santander port.

Man and the Sea Museum

The Museo El Hombre y la Mar, also known as the Muelle de las Carabelas (Wharf of the Caravels), is an open-air museum located in the Península de La Magdalena. It showcases three galleons donated by Cantabrian sailor Vital Alsar, which were used in his Atlantic Ocean expeditions between 1966 and 1992. The exhibition also features a replica of the wooden raft he used to cross the Pacific Ocean in 1970, a bronze mermaid sculpture that served as the figurehead of the "Marigalante" ship, a bronze map showing some of Alsar's routes, and a safety bubble that was towed by the "Cantabria" galleon for over 7,000 miles. Situated in an exceptional setting with magnificent views of El Sardinero, this free-access museum offers visitors a glimpse into maritime history and exploration whilst being conveniently located near the Marine Park, which houses seals, sea lions and penguins.

Museum of Prehistory and Archaeology of Cantabria (MUPAC)

Located in the heart of the city, MUPAC offers 2000 m² of exhibition space showcasing over 1,200 artefacts from the Upper Palaeolithic Era to the Middle Ages. Many of these pieces come from important archaeological sites such as Altamira and Puente Viesgo. The museum features interactive multimedia displays in English and Spanish, with notable exhibits including bear skeletons and giant stone discs.

Centro Botín

This modern cultural centre, designed by renowned architect Renzo Piano, opened in 2017. The futuristic building, adorned with 280,000 ceramic discs, houses:

• A gallery area for contemporary art
• A café
• A rooftop viewpoint

The permanent exhibit showcases works by international artists such as Joan Jonas, Carlos Garaicoa, and Julie Mehretu.

Santander Image Documentation Centre (CDIS)

Located on Calle Magallanes, this centre focuses on historical recovery through photographic heritage. Originally the Municipal Historic Photographic Archive, its collection has grown thanks to private donations. The centre features an exhibition hall open to the public.

The Botín Foundation

Housed in the family home of Don Marcelino Sanz de Sautuola, the discoverer of the Prehistoric Caves of Altamira, this exhibition centre serves as the headquarters for the Botín Foundation. It includes:

• A meeting room
• A seminar room
• A library
• An attic used for workshops

Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art

Established in 1909, this museum houses paintings and sculptures from the 15th to the 20th centuries. It offers visitors a comprehensive look at the evolution of art over five centuries.

Local Cuisine

Santander's cuisine is a delightful reflection of Cantabria's diverse landscape, combining the bounty of the sea with the riches of the mountains. Visitors can savour fresh seafood from the Cantabrian Sea, including rabas (deep-fried squid rings) and anchoas (anchovies) from nearby Santoña. The region's hearty mountain fare is exemplified by cocido montañés, a warming stew of beans, cabbage, and pork. For those with a sweet tooth, sobaos pasiegos and quesada pasiega are must-try pastries. Cheese lovers should not miss the opportunity to sample Picón Bejes-Tresviso, a strong blue cheese, and Quesucos de Liébana, made from a mixture of cow and sheep milk. To wash it all down, try the local orujo, a potent grape spirit, or for a non-alcoholic option, té del puerto, a mountain tea often served with orujo.

Shopping

Santander's main shopping district is concentrated in the city centre, particularly around the Town Hall and along streets like Calle Jesús de Monasterio, Calle San Fernando, and Calle Vargas. The area boasts a mix of local independent stores and well-known brands. For fresh produce and local delicacies, the Mercado de la Esperanza, a modernist building dating back to 1904, is a must-visit. Located behind the Town Hall, it offers an array of fish, meat, cheeses, and fruit, as well as Santander's famous sobaos pasiegos (fluffy buttery cakes). The market's basement, open from 8am to 2pm, showcases an impressive selection of fresh seafood. For those seeking a more modern shopping experience, the city also features several shopping centres and department stores like El Corte Inglés.

Nature in and around Santander

Santander and its surrounding areas offer a wealth of natural attractions for visitors to explore. The city's coastline boasts several beautiful beaches, including El Sardinero, Playa del Camello, and Playa de la Magdalena. The Magdalena Peninsula, covering 25 hectares, features impressive landscapes, beaches, and a small marine park. Nature enthusiasts can enjoy walks in Parque de Mataleñas on Cabo Menor, offering stunning views, or explore the 11-hectare Parque de La Vaguada de Las Llamas, a marshy area popular with nesting birds. Just outside the city, the Natural Park of the Dunes of Liencres encompasses 195 hectares of coves, beaches, maritime pine woods, and sand dunes. For those willing to venture further, the Picos de Europa National Park and Oyambre Natural Park offer breathtaking mountain scenery and coastal landscapes, respectively.

Jardines de Piquío

The Jardines de Piquío, created in 1925, serve as a natural divider between the First and Second Beaches of El Sardinero. These meticulously maintained gardens offer a serene escape from the bustling beaches. The gardens' elevated position provides unparalleled views of El Sardinero and the Cantabrian Sea, making it a popular spot for both locals and tourists. The viewing platform at Piquío is particularly renowned, offering a vantage point that captures the essence of Santander's coastal beauty.

Parque de La Vaguada de Las Llamas

Opened in 2007, the Parque de La Vaguada de Las Llamas is a modern urban park that showcases Santander's commitment to green spaces. This expansive park features a diverse landscape of recreational areas, water features, and green spaces. The park's design incorporates an extensive network of paths, making it ideal for walking, jogging, or cycling. The water spaces within the park not only add to its aesthetic appeal but also serve as habitats for various species of flora and fauna, creating a unique ecosystem within the urban environment.

Parque de Mataleñas

Located on Cabo Menor, Parque de Mataleñas is a green oasis offering panoramic views of the Cantabrian Sea. This park is a testament to Santander's commitment to preserving natural spaces within the urban environment. Its extensive gardens are home to a variety of plant species, creating a colourful tapestry throughout the year. The large pond within the park attracts various bird species, making it a haven for birdwatchers. The park's sports track, set against the backdrop of the sea, provides a unique exercise experience for fitness enthusiasts.

Playa del Sardinero

The crown jewel of Santander's coastline, Playa del Sardinero is an expansive golden-sand beach that stretches along the city's northern edge. This Blue Flag beach is renowned for its crystal-clear turquoise waters and elegant seafront promenades. The beach is divided into two main sections, Primera and Segunda Playa del Sardinero, separated by the Jardines de Piquío. Playa del Sardinero is not just a summer destination; it's a year-round attraction, with its beauty transforming with the seasons. In winter, it becomes a paradise for surfers who flock to ride the impressive waves.

Other Notable Beaches

While Playa del Sardinero may be the most famous, Santander boasts several other stunning beaches. Playa del Camello, named after its distinctive camel-shaped rock formation, offers a more secluded experience. Playa de los Peligros, despite its ominous name meaning "Beach of Dangers," is a tranquil spot perfect for families. Playa de Mataleñas, nestled between cliffs, provides a dramatic backdrop for sunbathers and swimmers. The beach at La Magdalena Peninsula offers historic charm, while El Puntal, accessible only by boat, provides an escape to nature. Playa de Somo, across the bay, is popular among surfers and windsurfers.

Magdalena Peninsula

The Magdalena Peninsula is a 25-hectare park that juts out into the Cantabrian Sea, offering some of the most spectacular views in Santander. This verdant headland is home to diverse flora and fauna, with winding paths that lead visitors through lush gardens and to hidden coves. The peninsula is also home to a small zoo featuring seals, sea lions, and penguins, providing an unexpected wildlife encounter in the heart of the city. The combination of natural beauty and historical significance makes the Magdalena Peninsula a must-visit destination in Santander.

Getting There & Around

Santander offers excellent transport options for visitors. The city's airport, located 5km from the centre, is served by regular buses (every 15-30 minutes) and taxis (approximately €15). Trains connect Santander to Madrid (4-5 hours), Bilbao and other Spanish cities via RENFE and FEVE services. Long-distance buses operated by ALSA provide connections to Madrid (5 hours), Barcelona (9 hours), and nearby cities like Bilbao (90 minutes). Within Santander, the compact city centre is easily walkable, with most attractions within 15 minutes on foot. The efficient municipal bus network (TUS) covers the entire city, with single journeys costing €1.30 or €0.66 with a rechargeable card. Buses run every 15 minutes, including routes to popular beaches. Taxis operate 24 hours and can be found at designated stands or ordered by phone. For bay exploration, Los Reginas Ferries offer services to Pedreña, Somo and Puntal beaches every 15-30 minutes during summer.

Best Time to Visit

The best time to visit Santander is from June to mid-September, when the weather is at its most favourable. During this period, you can expect mild temperatures, with average highs ranging from 20°C to 23°C, and less rainfall compared to other months. August is particularly pleasant, boasting the warmest sea temperatures of around 21°C and the most sunshine, with approximately 6 hours of bright sunshine per day. July and August are the hottest months, perfect for beach activities and outdoor exploration. However, it's worth noting that even during these summer months, Santander's climate remains relatively mild, rarely exceeding 30°C. For those who prefer slightly cooler temperatures and fewer crowds, June and September offer a delightful balance of pleasant weather and quieter attractions.