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Chartres Travel Guide

Chartres, Centre (© JONATHAN - Fotolia.com)

Introduction

Chartres is a historic town located in the Centre-Val de Loire region of France, serving as the capital of the Eure-et-Loir department. Situated about 90 km southwest of Paris, it is renowned for its stunning Gothic cathedral, which is one of the best-preserved examples of Gothic architecture in the world. The cathedral, built between 1193 and 1250, features an impressive ensemble of stained glass windows and is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Chartres is also known for its cultural and historical significance, having been an important centre in the Gallo-Roman period and later during the Middle Ages. Today, it is a popular destination for tourists and a significant administrative and commercial hub for the surrounding agricultural region.


Interesting Facts about Chartres

  • Chartres Cathedral, a UNESCO World Heritage site, was the first large Gothic cathedral to receive this worldwide accolade in 1979.
  • The cathedral boasts nearly 2,600 square metres of stained glass, the largest preserved collection of original medieval stained glass in the world.
  • The main body of Chartres Cathedral was completed in less than 26 years, resulting in remarkable architectural unity.
  • Chartres is known as the 'City of Light and Perfume', with spectacular night tours illuminating historic buildings in the old quarter.
  • The city is an important market town often referred to as 'the granary of France' due to its thriving agricultural economy.
  • Chartres Cathedral houses a labyrinth inlaid into the floor, dating from around 1200, which is still visited by pilgrims and tourists today.
  • The cathedral's crypt is of exceptional dimensions and is one of the largest in France.
  • Chartres Cathedral features three intricately carved portals, including the royal portal with statues exemplifying the transition between Romanesque and Gothic art.
  • The cathedral's roof structure is made of cast iron and encloses an impressively large attic space roofed with copper plates.
  • Chartres is home to the Museum of Fine Arts, housed in the Episcopal Palace where Henry IV was crowned in 1594.
Aerial view of Chartres (© Leonid Andronov | Dreamstime.com)

History

Chartres traces its origins back to pre-Roman Gaul when it was a sacred place for Celtic druids. Known as Autricum during the Gallo-Roman period, the city later became a significant centre for the Carnutes, a Celtic tribe from which it derived its name. Throughout the Middle Ages, Chartres flourished as the principal town of the Beauce region, held by the counts of Blois and Champagne before being sold to the French Crown in 1286.

The city's prominence grew significantly when it became a major pilgrimage destination, thanks to the acquisition of the Sancta Camisia—a cloth believed to have belonged to the Virgin Mary—in 876. This relic, along with the city's renowned cathedral, attracted countless pilgrims and contributed to Chartres' prosperity. The cathedral itself, mostly constructed between 1193 and 1250, stands as a testament to the city's religious and cultural importance, showcasing exceptional Gothic architecture and preserving much of its original 13th-century stained glass.

Chartres' history is marked by periods of conflict and resilience. The city endured Viking raids in the 9th century, occupation by the English for 15 years during the Hundred Years' War, and unsuccessful sieges by Huguenots in the Wars of Religion. A pivotal moment in French history occurred in 1594 when Henry IV was crowned in Chartres Cathedral, the only French king whose coronation did not take place in Reims. Despite facing severe damage during World War II, Chartres has preserved much of its historical charm and continues to be an important cultural and tourist centre, offering visitors a glimpse into its rich past.


Main Attractions

Chartres Cathedral

The UNESCO World Heritage-listed Notre-Dame de Chartres Cathedral stands as the pinnacle of Chartres' attractions. This Gothic masterpiece, constructed between 1194 and 1225, is a testament to medieval architectural prowess. The cathedral's impressive dimensions, stretching nearly 140 metres in length and soaring to a height of 37 metres, immediately capture visitors' attention. However, it's the intricate details that truly set this cathedral apart. The stained-glass windows, many dating back to the 12th and 13th centuries, are considered some of the finest examples of medieval glasswork in existence. These windows bathe the interior in an ethereal light, creating a mesmerising atmosphere that has captivated pilgrims and tourists alike for centuries.

The cathedral's exterior is equally impressive, featuring remarkable sculptures that adorn its façades. The Royal Portal on the west façade is particularly noteworthy, showcasing intricate carvings that depict biblical scenes and figures. Inside, visitors will find a unique labyrinth pattern on the cathedral floor, a feature that has intrigued scholars and spiritual seekers for generations. For those willing to climb, the North Tower offers panoramic views of Chartres and the surrounding countryside from its 112-metre vantage point.

Old Town

Stepping away from the cathedral, visitors find themselves immersed in the charm of Chartres' old town. This area is a living museum of medieval and Renaissance architecture, with narrow cobblestoned streets winding between beautifully preserved buildings. The old town is characterised by its abundance of half-timbered houses, their wooden frames exposed and often painted in vibrant colours that contrast with the whitewashed walls. These structures, some dating back to the 15th and 16th centuries, offer a glimpse into the daily life of medieval Chartres.

Interspersed among the half-timbered houses are grand Renaissance mansions, their stone façades adorned with intricate carvings and elegant windows. These buildings, once home to wealthy merchants and nobles, now stand as silent witnesses to Chartres' prosperous past. A leisurely stroll through the old town reveals hidden courtyards, quaint shops housed in centuries-old buildings, and unexpected views of the cathedral's spires rising above the rooftops.

Traditional houses in Chartres (© Leonid Andronov | Dreamstime.com)

Saint-Aignan Church

While the cathedral may dominate Chartres' skyline, the town boasts several other significant religious buildings. Saint-Aignan Church, though smaller in scale, offers its own unique charms. The church's interior is notable for its beautiful patterned paintwork, which adorns the walls and ceilings. This decorative scheme, executed with great skill and attention to detail, creates a warm and inviting atmosphere within the church. The patterns and colours used in the paintwork reflect various periods of the church's history, offering visitors a visual journey through time.

Saint-Pierre Church

Another noteworthy religious site is Saint-Pierre Church, considered by many to be a masterpiece of Gothic architecture in its own right. Originally constructed in the 12th century, the church underwent significant renovations in the 16th century, resulting in a harmonious blend of architectural styles. The church houses an impressive collection of 20 medieval stained-glass windows, complemented by 16th-century additions that showcase the evolution of this art form over the centuries.

One of Saint-Pierre's most striking features is the series of 19th-century Romanesque murals that adorn the nave. These paintings, executed in rich colours and intricate detail, depict various biblical scenes and saints. The combination of Gothic architecture, medieval stained glass, and 19th-century murals makes Saint-Pierre a fascinating study in the continuity and evolution of religious art and architecture.

River Eure

The River Eure, which winds its way through Chartres, offers a natural counterpoint to the town's architectural wonders. The river's banks provide pleasant walking paths that allow visitors to enjoy the town from a different perspective. Lush vegetation lines the riverbanks in many areas, creating tranquil green spaces within the urban environment. The gentle flow of the water and the play of light on its surface offer a soothing backdrop for a leisurely stroll or a moment of quiet contemplation.

For those seeking a more active engagement with the river, kayaking and pedal boating are popular activities. These options allow visitors to experience Chartres from the water, offering unique views of the town's bridges and riverside buildings. The river also plays host to various water birds, adding an element of wildlife observation to the experience.

Statue of Saint Fulbert

Near the cathedral stands the bronze statue of Saint Fulbert, a figure of great significance in Chartres' history. Created in 1997, this relatively modern addition to the town's landscape pays homage to a man who played a crucial role in shaping Chartres' destiny. Saint Fulbert, who served as bishop of Chartres from 1006 to 1028, was instrumental in developing the cathedral and its renowned school. The statue depicts the bishop in his ecclesiastical robes, his face bearing an expression of wisdom and determination.

The presence of this statue serves as a tangible link between Chartres' medieval past and its present. It stands as a reminder of the individuals whose vision and dedication helped create the architectural and cultural legacy that visitors admire today. The statue's location near the cathedral is fitting, as it was Saint Fulbert who laid the foundations for the intellectual and spiritual prominence that Chartres would achieve in the Middle Ages.

Festival of Lights (Chartres en Lumières)

While Chartres is captivating at any time of day, it takes on a magical quality during the Festival of Lights, known locally as Chartres en Lumières. This event, which takes place on summer evenings, transforms the town's most iconic buildings and spaces through the creative use of light. The cathedral is the centrepiece of this illumination, with carefully designed projections highlighting its architectural features and bringing its stone surfaces to vibrant life.

The light show extends beyond the cathedral, encompassing other significant buildings and public spaces throughout the town. Historic façades become canvases for artistic light displays, while public squares and gardens are transformed into enchanting nighttime landscapes. The Festival of Lights offers visitors a unique way to experience Chartres, revealing new aspects of familiar sights and creating a dreamlike atmosphere that lingers in the memory long after the visit has ended.


Top Museums

Musée des Beaux-Arts (Fine Arts Museum)

Housed in the former episcopal palace, the Musée des Beaux-Arts is Chartres' principal museum. This magnificent building, dating from the 15th to 18th centuries, is surrounded by the picturesque gardens of the bishopric. The museum's diverse collection spans from the Middle Ages to the mid-20th century, featuring works by renowned artists such as Fragonard, Chardin, Soutine, Corot, Vlaminck, and Rigaud. Visitors can also explore an intriguing collection of Oceanian art, bequeathed by Governor Louis-Joseph Bouge, showcasing artefacts from Tahiti, the Marquesas, Vanuatu, and New Caledonia.

Centre International du Vitrail (International Stained Glass Centre)

Located just 50 metres from the cathedral, the Centre International du Vitrail is a unique establishment dedicated to the art of stained glass. Housed in one of France's most remarkable 13th-century Gothic cellars, this centre serves as a museum, research facility, and professional training school. The museum showcases an exceptional collection of original Renaissance stained glass windows and contemporary works. An educational room provides visitors with detailed explanations of the stained glass windows in Chartres Cathedral.

Maison Picassiette

The Maison Picassiette is a striking example of naïve architecture created by Raymond Isidore, a municipal worker. This unique house is entirely covered in mosaics made from broken pieces of pottery and glass. The interior features murals depicting views of Mont Saint-Michel and Chartres, while the exterior showcases intricate mosaics of local landmarks and symbolic figures. This extraordinary site offers visitors a glimpse into one man's lifelong artistic obsession.

Musée de l'École de Chartres et d'Eure-et-Loir (School Museum)

Dedicated to preserving the educational heritage of the early 20th century, this museum houses thousands of objects related to schooling. Visitors can explore a fascinating collection of old maps, natural science boards, magic lanterns, and vintage school desks. The museum also hosts thematic exhibitions and activities, providing insight into the lives of pupils and teachers from bygone eras.

COMPA - Le Conservatoire de l'Agriculture (Agriculture Museum)

As France's premier museum dedicated to agriculture, COMPA offers visitors a comprehensive look at the country's farming heritage. The museum features various interactive spaces, including a model farm where children can experience being farmers, gardeners, or cultivators. A highlight is the 'tractobrick', the world's largest 1:1 scale reproduction of a tractor made from construction bricks. The museum's collections showcase the history of rural life, agricultural mechanisation, and the challenges of feeding growing populations.


Local Cuisine

Chartres, nestled in the heart of the Beauce region, boasts a rich culinary heritage that reflects its agricultural roots. The city's most renowned delicacy is the Pâté de Chartres, a game-filled pastry crust often enhanced with foie gras and truffles. For a hearty main course, visitors should try the traditional Poule au Pot, a chicken stew that harkens back to the reign of Henry IV. Sweet-toothed travellers will delight in Mentchikoffs, chocolate-praline bonbons coated in Swiss meringue, and the Macarons de Chartres, known for their smooth texture and fresh almond flavour. The Sablé de Beauce, a buttery shortbread made with local wheat, offers a taste of the region's agricultural bounty. To wash it all down, sample the locally brewed Eurélienne beer or the unique Beauce Cola, made with beetroot sugar. For a truly authentic experience, don't miss the medieval-inspired Cochelin, a man-shaped puff pastry treat traditionally enjoyed during the Christmas season.


Getting There & Around

Chartres, a charming city just 88 km southwest of Paris, is easily accessible by various means of transport. Travellers can reach Chartres by car via the A10 and A11 motorways, which takes approximately one hour from central Paris. For those preferring public transport, regular train services run from Paris Montparnasse station, with the journey taking about an hour. Once in Chartres, visitors can explore the city on foot, as many attractions are within walking distance. For longer trips, the Filibus network offers 15 bus lines serving the urban area. Two free shuttle services, "Relais des Portes" and "C'La Navette", provide convenient transportation around the city centre. Cycling enthusiasts can rent bikes from the Maison du Vélo near the train station, offering an eco-friendly way to discover Chartres and its surroundings.