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Introduction
Saint-Malo is a historic walled city located on the northwest coast of France, in the Brittany region. Situated on a granite islet connected to the mainland, it has a rich maritime history dating back to the 6th century when it was founded by the Welsh monk Maclou. The city is famous for its well-preserved medieval ramparts and the Intra Muros district, which features cobblestone streets, historic mansions, and a vibrant cultural scene. Saint-Malo was once a pirate capital and played a significant role in French maritime exploration, including the voyages of Jacques Cartier. Today, it attracts over 2.5 million tourists annually, offering attractions such as the Grand Aquarium, the Château de Saint-Malo, and the beautiful Plage du Sillon beach.
Interesting Facts about Saint-Malo
- Saint-Malo is France's largest marina and regularly hosts The Tall Ships Races, celebrating its rich maritime heritage.
- The city boasts 12th-century stone ramparts that visitors can walk along to get a panoramic view of the citadel and quirky alleyways.
- From 1590 to 1594, Saint-Malo declared itself an independent republic, adopting the defiant motto "not French, not Breton, but Malouin".
- The famous explorer Jacques Cartier, credited as the discoverer of Canada, lived in and sailed from Saint-Malo.
- Saint-Malo was notorious as the home of corsairs, French privateers who attacked enemy ships on behalf of the king.
- The Spanish name for the Falkland Islands, "Islas Malvinas", is derived from the French "Îles Malouines", named after the inhabitants of Saint-Malo.
- During World War II, Saint-Malo was 80% destroyed but has since been meticulously rebuilt, including the Saint-Vincent Cathedral.
- The city experiences some of the highest tides in Europe, with waves that can reach up to 13 metres.
- Saint-Malo's name originates from a Welsh monk named Maclow, who settled on the rocky islet in the 6th century.
- The world's first large-scale tidal power plant, using flood and ebb tides to generate electricity, was completed in Saint-Malo in 1967.
History
Originally founded by Gauls in the 1st century BC, the area was known as Reginca or Aletum during the Roman era. The city's modern incarnation traces its roots to the 6th century when Celtic monks, including Saint Aaron and Saint Brendan, established a monastic settlement on a rocky islet. The town derives its name from Saint Malo, a Welsh monk who was a follower of Saint Brendan.
Throughout the centuries, Saint-Malo developed a reputation for fierce independence and maritime prowess. In the 12th century, the town began to expand on the rocky outcrop, eventually becoming a fortified citadel. From the 16th to 18th centuries, Saint-Malo flourished as a hub for privateers, known as corsairs, who were sanctioned by the French crown to attack enemy ships. Notable corsairs like Robert Surcouf and Duguay-Trouin brought wealth and fame to the city. This period of prosperity led to the construction of grand mansions and the reinforcement of the city's impressive ramparts, designed by the renowned military engineer Vauban.
Saint-Malo's indomitable spirit was put to the test during World War II when the city suffered extensive damage. In August 1944, under Hitler's orders, the Germans transformed the city into a fortress, leading to its near-total destruction by Allied forces. Remarkably, the determined Malouins rebuilt their beloved city brick by brick over a 12-year period from 1948 to 1960. The reconstruction effort meticulously preserved the city's medieval character, replicating the original architecture and layout. Today, Saint-Malo stands as a testament to resilience and history, welcoming visitors to explore its storied past within its beautifully restored walls.
Main Attractions
Intra-Muros (Old Town)
The heart of Saint-Malo is its walled old town, known as Intra-Muros. This 2km-long granite fortification encircles a network of cobbled streets, historic buildings, and charming squares. The walls themselves date from the 12th to 18th centuries and stretch for 1754 metres, offering a scenic promenade with panoramic views of the city and sea. As you walk along the ramparts, you'll encounter various towers and bastions, each with its own history and strategic importance. The Grand' Porte, a remarkable entrance to the old town, features two impressive towers that have guarded the city for centuries. Within the walls, the narrow streets are lined with tall granite houses, many of which have been beautifully restored after the destruction of World War II.
Château de Saint-Malo
Also known as Château de la Duchesse Anne, this 15th-century castle stands as a testament to Saint-Malo's rich history. Originally built to defend the city, it now offers visitors a glimpse into medieval life and architecture. The castle's sturdy walls and towers have withstood centuries of sieges and storms. From its ramparts, visitors can enjoy panoramic views of the city and coastline, appreciating the strategic importance of its location.
Saint-Vincent Cathedral
Dominating the skyline of Saint-Malo, the Saint-Vincent Cathedral is a magnificent example of Gothic architecture. Construction began in the 12th century, and the cathedral has been expanded and modified over the centuries. Its imposing façade and soaring spire are visible from many parts of the city. Inside, visitors can admire the beautiful stained glass windows, some of which date back to the 16th century, and the impressive organ, which was rebuilt after World War II.
Fort National
Built in 1689 under the direction of Vauban, Louis XIV's military engineer, Fort National stands on a tidal island just off the coast of Saint-Malo. This impressive structure was designed to protect the city from sea-based attacks. At low tide, visitors can walk across the sandy causeway to explore the fort, climbing its walls for panoramic views of the city and sea. The fort played a significant role in various conflicts throughout history, including World War II.
Bidouane Tower
One of the most prominent features of the ramparts is the Bidouane Tower. This impressive structure offers visitors the opportunity to climb to its summit for a stunning 360-degree view of Saint-Malo and its surroundings. From this vantage point, you can appreciate the layout of the old town, the expanse of the sea, and the distant islands that dot the horizon. The tower itself is a testament to medieval military architecture, with its thick walls and strategic position overlooking the bay.
Plage du Sillon
Saint-Malo's longest beach, Plage du Sillon, stretches for an impressive 3 kilometres along the city's northern coast. This expansive strand actually comprises three connected beaches: Grande Plage, Hoguette, and Rochebonne. The golden sands are perfect for sunbathing, while the gentle slope into the sea makes it ideal for swimming. At low tide, the beach reveals a vast expanse of sand, dotted with rock pools that are fascinating to explore. The beach is backed by a long promenade, popular with joggers and walkers, offering stunning views across the bay.
Plage du Mole and Plage de Bon-Secours
Located to the west of the old town, Plage du Mole and Plage de Bon-Secours are two smaller but equally charming beaches. Plage du Mole offers excellent views of the estuary and nearby islands, while Plage de Bon-Secours is known for its seawater swimming pool, built in the 1930s, which is filled by the high tide. The rocky outcrop separating these two beaches is a popular spot for rockpooling, where visitors can discover a variety of marine life at low tide.
Grand Bé Island
This tidal island, accessible by foot at low tide, is famous as the final resting place of the renowned French writer François-René de Chateaubriand. The island offers a tranquil escape from the bustling city, with its rugged landscape and panoramic views. Visitors can explore the ruins of an old fort and pay their respects at Chateaubriand's tomb, which is marked by a simple cross facing out to sea.
Petit Bé Fort
Another tidal island fort visible from the city, Petit Bé Fort was also constructed under Vauban's direction in the late 17th century. This star-shaped fort is an excellent example of military architecture of its time. While not always open to the public, it presents an impressive sight from the shore and can be approached on foot during low tide.
Parc de la Briantais
This large open park offers a refreshing contrast to the bustling streets of Saint-Malo. With its expansive lawns, mature trees, and well-maintained gardens, it's a perfect spot for a leisurely stroll or a picnic. The park also provides excellent views of the city and the Rance estuary, making it a favourite spot for photographers, especially during sunset.
Pointe de la Varde
Located to the east of Saint-Malo, the Pointe de la Varde is a protected coastal area that showcases the natural beauty of the Breton coastline. This rugged headland features dramatic cliffs, hidden coves, and diverse flora and fauna. A network of walking trails allows visitors to explore this unspoiled landscape, offering breathtaking views of the sea and the opportunity to spot various seabirds.
Aleth Cliff
Situated across the Rance estuary from Saint-Malo, Aleth Cliff offers some of the most spectacular views of the city. From this vantage point, visitors can appreciate the full sweep of Saint-Malo's coastline, from the walled city to the distant beaches and islands. The cliff itself is rich in history, with remnants of ancient fortifications and a small chapel dedicated to Saint Anne.
Top Museums
Museum of the History of Saint-Malo and the Malouin Country
Located within the Château de Saint-Malo, this museum offers an in-depth look at five centuries of French maritime history. Its collections include nautical exhibits, model boats, and marine artefacts, as well as displays on famous locals such as Jacques Cartier, Robert Surcouf, and François-René de Chateaubriand. Visitors can explore cod-fishing heritage exhibits, paintings, furniture from the terre-neuvas era, and even religious artefacts from Saint-Malo’s past. The museum also features impressive views from its lookout tower over the old city and harbour.
Musée international du Long-Cours Cap-Hornier
Housed in the Solidor Tower, a 14th-century keep overlooking the Rance estuary, this museum focuses on commercial navigation via Cape Horn. It showcases objects related to long-distance sailing, including ship models and artefacts from voyages. The climb to the top of its three towers rewards visitors with stunning panoramas of Saint-Malo and its surroundings.
Terre-Neuvas Museum
This museum celebrates Saint-Malo’s cod-fishing tradition on the Newfoundland banks between the 15th and 20th centuries. Located near the Saint-Malo market, it features guided tours led by former fishermen who share their experiences. Exhibits include sailing boat models, reconstructions of ship cabins, and paintings depicting life aboard fishing vessels. It provides an engaging experience for visitors of all ages.
Jacques Cartier Museum
Dedicated to Jacques Cartier, the famous explorer who discovered Canada in 1534, this museum offers insights into his voyages and legacy. It is situated in his former residence at Limoëlou Manor near Saint-Malo. The exhibits include maps, artefacts from his expeditions, and information about his contributions to maritime exploration.
Memorial 39-45
This museum commemorates Saint-Malo’s role during World War II. Located on the Aleth Peninsula, it features exhibits about the city’s destruction in 1944 and its subsequent reconstruction. Visitors can learn about wartime history while enjoying views of the surrounding area.
Manoli Museum and Sculpture Garden
For art enthusiasts, this museum showcases works by Manoli, a renowned sculptor inspired by nature and maritime themes. The outdoor sculpture garden adds a unique dimension to the experience.
Local Cuisine
Saint-Malo's cuisine is a delightful blend of Breton traditions and coastal influences. Visitors can savour the region's famous crêpes and galettes, made with buckwheat flour and filled with an array of sweet or savoury toppings. Seafood lovers will relish the fresh oysters, mussels, and fish soup featuring up to 12 varieties of fish and seafood. The city's culinary offerings also include hearty dishes like kig ha farz, a Breton-style pot-au-feu with a unique buckwheat dumpling. For those with a sweet tooth, kouign-amann, a buttery layered pastry, and flan, a traditional dessert made with whipped eggs, milk, nuts, rum, and vanilla, are must-tries. Don't forget to sample the exquisite Saint-Paulin cheese and indulge in treats made with salted butter caramel, a regional speciality. To complement your meal, enjoy a glass of local apple juice or a traditional bowl of Breton cider.
Getting There & Around
Getting to Saint-Malo is possible through various modes of transport. The nearest airports are in Dinard, Rennes, and Nantes, from where you can reach the city by train, shuttle bus, or taxi. Trains are a popular option, with direct TGV services from Paris to Saint-Malo. For those travelling from England, a ferry service operates from Portsmouth. Once in Saint-Malo, the walled city centre is easily walkable and mostly pedestrianised. For longer distances, the MAT (Malo Agglo Transports) bus network offers 18 routes covering Saint-Malo and surrounding areas. Taxis and rideshares are available, though cycling is a pleasant way to explore the city's 50 km of cycling lanes when weather permits. While car hire is an option, it's not ideal for navigating the Old Town due to limited access and parking.