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Introduction
Pérouges, a medieval walled town located in the Ain department of Eastern France, is renowned for its picturesque charm and historical significance. Situated about 30 km northeast of Lyon, it offers a glimpse into the past with its well-preserved architecture, including cobblestone streets, medieval timber-framed houses, and a 15th-century church. The town is famous for its role in various films and hosts cultural events like the Printemps de Pérouges music festival and a medieval festival. Visitors can explore the Museum of Old Pérouges, enjoy the local specialty Pérouges cake, and take in the views from the watchtower.
Interesting Facts about Pérouges
- Pérouges is a medieval walled town perched on a small hill overlooking the plain of the river Ain, located 30 km northeast of Lyon.
- The town was probably founded by a Gallic colony returning from Perugia in Italy.
- In the 19th century, Pérouges' population dropped from 1,500 to 90 due to the re-routing of roads and railways.
- Pérouges is recognised as one of the 'Les Plus Beaux Villages de France' (Most Beautiful Villages of France).
- The town's central square, Place du Tilleul, features a majestic lime tree planted in 1792.
- Pérouges has been used as a filming location for several period films, including 'The Three Musketeers' and 'Monsieur Vincent'.
- The town hosts an annual spring music festival between April and June, featuring genres from Baroque to jazz.
- Pérouges boasts a 15th-century church-fortress dedicated to Saint Mary Magdalene, which combines the functions of a place of worship and fortification.
- The local speciality, 'galette de Pérouges', is a brioche pastry with sugar and butter, often enjoyed with a glass of Cerdon wine.
- Only 80 people live within the walls of the medieval city, whilst the entire town has a population of about 1,200.
History
Founded by a Gallic colony returning from Perugia, Italy, the town was strategically positioned on a hill overlooking the Ain plain, at the crossroads of major trade routes between Lyon and Geneva. This advantageous location allowed Pérouges to flourish as a centre of craftsmanship and trade, particularly in the textile industry, with linen and hemp weaving becoming its primary economic activities.
Throughout the Renaissance, Pérouges continued to thrive as an important textile hub and a popular resting place for travellers. The village played a significant role in the dynastic struggles between the houses of Dauphiné and Savoy before officially becoming part of France in 1601. However, the town's fortunes began to decline in the 18th century when Louis XV constructed a new road through nearby Meximieux, diverting traffic away from Pérouges. The advent of large jacquard looms in Lyon further impacted the local textile industry, as the town's workshops were too small to accommodate the new technology.
By the early 20th century, Pérouges had fallen into disrepair, with its population dwindling to mere dozens. The village faced the threat of demolition in 1909, but a group of dedicated locals formed the Comité de Défense et de Conservation du Vieux Pérouges to save their beloved town. With the support of Éduard Herriot, the mayor of Lyon, they embarked on an ambitious restoration project. Their efforts included transforming the Maison des Princes into a museum showcasing medieval life and opening the Hostellerie to accommodate tourists. Thanks to this remarkable preservation initiative, Pérouges has been restored to its former glory and is now recognised as one of France's most beautiful villages, attracting visitors from around the world.
Main Attractions
Place du Tilleul
At the heart of Pérouges lies the Place du Tilleul, the central square that serves as the focal point of the village. The square is named after the lime tree planted there in 1792, shortly after the French Revolution. This tree has become a symbol of liberty and remains an iconic feature of the town. The square is surrounded by medieval and Renaissance-era buildings with timber-framed facades and stone walls, creating a striking historical atmosphere. Among these buildings is the Hostellerie du Vieux Pérouges, a 13th-century inn that has been carefully preserved. The inn is famous for its traditional architecture and has been used as a location for several historical films. Visitors can also spot a sundial on one of the buildings, a reminder of how people once measured time before modern clocks. The square often bustles with activity during festivals and events, making it a lively spot to experience Pérouges' community spirit.
Rue des Princes
Rue des Princes is one of the most significant streets in Pérouges, as it was historically the main commercial thoroughfare of the village. This street is lined with well-preserved houses that date back to the 15th century, many of which belonged to wealthy merchants. A distinct feature of these houses is their wide bay windows, which were designed for displaying goods to passers-by during market days. One notable building along this street is the Maison du Prince, once home to members of the Dukes of Savoy. The house stands out for its elegant architecture and historical importance as a residence for nobility. At the end of Rue des Princes, visitors can find a watchtower that offers panoramic views of the surrounding countryside, including fields and forests that stretch into the distance.
The Fortifications
Pérouges’ fortifications are among its most remarkable features, providing insight into its strategic importance during medieval times. The town’s defensive walls are largely intact and encircle much of the village. Visitors can enter through one of two main gates: the Porte d’En Haut (Upper Gate) or Porte d’En Bas (Lower Gate). The Porte d’En Haut is particularly impressive, with its thick stone walls and arched entranceway that would have been used to control access to the town. Another key feature of the fortifications is the Tour de la Reine (Queen’s Tower), which served as both a defensive structure and a lookout point. Walking along these fortifications provides visitors with stunning views over the Ain plain and offers an opportunity to imagine what life was like for those who lived here centuries ago.
Saint-Georges Church
The Saint-Georges Church in Pérouges is an architectural gem that reflects both religious devotion and military necessity. Built in the 15th century, this church was designed not only as a place of worship but also as part of Pérouges’ defences. Its thick stone walls and narrow windows give it a fortress-like appearance, blending practicality with spiritual significance. Inside, visitors will find simple yet beautiful decor, including a wooden statue of Saint George slaying a dragon on its altar—a nod to both Christian symbolism and local legends. The church’s bell tower is another noteworthy feature; it rises above the village and serves as a reminder of Pérouges’ medieval roots.
Rue des Rondes
Rue des Rondes is an enchanting circular street that follows the outline of Pérouges’ medieval walls. This street offers visitors an opportunity to explore some of the quieter corners of the village while still enjoying its historical charm. Along Rue des Rondes, you’ll find several interesting landmarks, including an ancient well that plunges 33 metres deep into the ground—once an essential source of water for villagers during times of siege or drought. Another highlight is the Maison du Sergent de Justice (House of the Sergeant at Arms), which features an impressive round tower attached to its structure. This house once belonged to an official responsible for maintaining law and order in Pérouges during medieval times.
Traditional Architecture
One of Pérouges’ most captivating aspects is its traditional architecture, which has been carefully preserved over centuries. The village’s houses are built from local stone and timber, featuring steeply pitched roofs covered in terracotta tiles. Many buildings have small courtyards or gardens tucked away behind their walls, adding to their charm. As you wander through Pérouges’ narrow cobbled streets, you’ll notice details such as carved wooden doors, wrought-iron window grilles, and stone benches built into walls—all testaments to medieval craftsmanship.
Scenic Views
Due to its hilltop location, Pérouges offers several vantage points where visitors can enjoy breathtaking views over the surrounding landscape. From various spots along its fortifications or near Rue des Princes’ watchtower, you can see rolling fields dotted with farms and villages stretching out towards the horizon. These views are particularly stunning at sunrise or sunset when soft light bathes the countryside in warm hues.
Top Museums
Old Pérouges Museum (Musée du Vieux Pérouges)
The Old Pérouges Museum, housed in a former nobleman's residence in the heart of the medieval city, offers visitors a captivating journey through time. The museum's first two rooms display an extensive collection of objects from everyday life in Pérouges throughout the ages, including furniture, cooking utensils, tools, and weapons.
As you explore further, you'll encounter exhibitions of contemporary art and photographs, providing a striking contrast to the historical artefacts. The museum also features a weaver's workshop, allowing visitors to glimpse into the town's textile heritage.
One of the highlights of the Old Pérouges Museum is the watchtower, which offers a magnificent panoramic view of the historic city. At the top, you'll find an orientation table explaining the various sights visible from this vantage point.
The museum experience concludes with a visit to the medieval garden, home to a variety of exotic plant and flower species. This unique outdoor space provides a serene environment to reflect on the town's rich history.
For those interested in archaeology, the museum houses a collection of artefacts from local excavations, including a Merovingian burial tomb.
Railwayman's Museum
Although not directly in Pérouges, the nearby Railwayman's Museum in Ambérieu-en-Bugey is worth mentioning for its connection to the region's industrial heritage.
This museum offers a comprehensive look at the history of railways, from their origins to the present day. Visitors can explore exhibits on railway life, discover various machines, and learn about the role of railways in the resistance movement during World War II.
Passionate volunteers guide visitors through the museum, sharing their knowledge and enthusiasm for railway history.
Local Cuisine
Pérouges's most famous culinary specialty is undoubtedly the galette de Pérouges, a delicious sugar tart created in 1912 that has become the town's signature dish. This sweet brioche-like pastry, often served warm with cream and fruit coulis, pairs wonderfully with a glass of local Cerdon wine or cider. Visitors can also savour traditional French fare at the village's charming restaurants, which serve regional specialities such as Bresse chicken and freshwater fish from the Dombes. For those with a penchant for artisanal products, Pérouges offers an array of local delicacies, including mountain honey, handmade jams, and regional wines. Don't miss the opportunity to try bugnes, delightful orange blossom-flavoured doughnuts that are a favourite among locals and tourists alike.
Getting There & Around
Pérouges, located 35 km northeast of Lyon, is easily accessible by car via the A42 motorway or by train from Lyon to the Meximieux-Pérouges station, which is just over a kilometre from the village. For those arriving by air, Lyon-Saint Exupéry Airport is about a 35-minute drive away. Once in Pérouges, cars must be parked at the base of the hill as the village itself is pedestrian-only, allowing visitors to wander its cobbled streets freely. To explore the surrounding region, options include car rentals, regional buses, and even bicycles for eco-friendly travel. Pérouges’ compact layout makes it ideal for walking, offering an immersive experience of its historic charm.